There were no traffic lights or crosswalks in Jakarta. There were pedestrian overpasses on the eight lane highways, but anything narrower than that must be crossed Frogger style. I quickly learned the correct technique by watching the locals. If I waited for a break in the traffic, I would be there all day. Instead, I simply walked into the road and put my hand out towards the oncoming traffic, palm down. Flinching or hesitating would cause chaos to ensue. If I simply steadily walked across, the drivers braked and timed it so that I passed unharmed curb to curb. There was also often no sidewalk next to the road. I kept as far to the edge as possible and the motorbikes flew by, carefully keeping a generous centimeter or two away from my elbow.
As I walked, every guy in the street thought for sure he had found an easy taxi fare and offered through hand motions and broken English to give me a ride on the back of his bike. Surely the westerner with the backpack must want a ride. I turned them all down, but as dusk set in and I was lost, I decided to get a taxi after all. I had directions written in Indonesian to give to the driver, but unfortunately they were directions from the train station, which I was no longer anywhere near. The first car I hailed turned me away after not being able to understand the directions. After all those guys had begged to give me a ride, this guy didn't need my business. The car right behind him jumped all over the opportunity. It took him a minute to figure it out, but he got me there.
Jakarta is a catastrophe, but I was expecting as much, based on what I had heard from other backpackers. You know a country is messed up when when the options at the ATM of how much money to take out are one million, two million, or three million. I was lucky enough to meet some cool people and I've found that's what matters most. We travelled around together to the few interesting things there were to do in Jakarta. After dinner the first night, my French friend, Morgan, suggested that we get doughnuts from a small Indonesian chain called "J. CO". Oh baby, was that a good idea. I never expected to come to Indonesia and be blown away by doughnuts, but that's exactly what happened. The first flavor I tried was only mediocre, but then I sampled a tiramisu cream filled one. If these things ever hit the U.S., there will be a frenzy. I went back the next day for more and I already miss them.